Often labeled “sharabi-kebabi” or “adhe Mussalman” (half Muslim) because of their gastronomic adventurousness, the Mathur-Kayasthas have always considered themselves to be sophisticates, well versed in matters cultural—and culinary. Often, in a household, the passion for music (or dramatics and urdu poetry) would only be overshadowed by an interest in food, with dining room conversations routinely centred around the next meal!
Recipes
Paya, paella and some omlette talk
How to serve up trotters… and the best of eggs…
By Anoothi Vishal
“By the way, Chandra can now cook the perfect paya,” said uncle-in-law, who can be quite the intimidating editor with a fondness for all things food and French. Chandra is his cook, an affable pahari lady who has withstood perfection in the kitchen for almost two decades.
Recipe for Orange-flavoured Chicken Pulao
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes
Serves 4
Ingredients
Rice, parboiled in rose water with ½ tsp saffron: 2 cups
Chicken, cut into 8 pieces: 800 g
Orange peel, chopped, blanched: ¼ cup
Ghee: 1 ½ cups
Carrots, grated: ½ cup
Almonds: ¼ cup
Sugar: 2 tbsp
Saffron (kesar): ½ tsp
Pistachios, pounded: ¼ cup
Onions, quartered: 1
Salt to taste
Silver leaves (varq): 4
Method
Heat ½ cup ghee on medium heat in a pan; sauté the carrots until soft.
Recipe for Stuffed Bitter Gourd (Dum ke Karele)
Preparation time: 1 hour
Cooking time: 1 hour
Serves 4
Ingredients
Bitter gourd (karela), washed, skin scraped: 500 g
Salt: ½ cup
Tamarind leaves: 1 cup
Ghee: ½ cup
Raisins: ½ cup
Almonds, blanched: 2 tbsp
Onions, fried: ¼ cup
Ginger, chopped: 1 tbsp
Coriander seeds, crushed: 1 tbsp
Cumin powder: 1 tsp
Yoghut, whisked: 1 cup
Lemon juice: 1 tbsp
Saffron: 2 tsp
Ground to powder
Brown cardamom: 2
Black cumin seeds: ½ tsp
Black peppercorns: ½ tsp
Cinnamon: 1
Cloves: 3
Method
Slit the bitter gourd lengthwise, remove the seeds and rub salt to remove the bitterness.
Cuisine of the Mughals: Humayun (1508-1556)
Humayun (1508-1556)
Humayun, the beloved father of Akbar, ascended the throne amidst great festivities in 1530. He had acquired proficiency in the arts and science in his early years. He was very fond of poetry and had great skill in that. He was also adept at astronomy and in geography.
Cuisine of the Mughals: Babur (1494-1530)
Babur (1494-1530)
Babur was born in Ferghana, in Transoxiana, modern Uzbekistan and Tajikistan; a scion of the dysnasty that had reigned undisputed throughout eastern Iran and Central Asia since the time of Timur. At the age of 12, Babur became the ruler of Ferghana, after his father died.
Cuisine of the Mughals
Historian Salma Husain’s book brings back the past with its extensive research into Mughal kitchens and the food habits and recipes of the emperors:
Husain is known in India as the original “kebab lady”—having researched into the beginnings of the kebabs and traced their history back, not to the muslim rule in India, but further back to Rig Vedic times of the early Aryans, who would conduct elaborate horse sacrifices and such and pieces of meat would be roasted for a meal.
Recipe for Steamed Lamb Savoury (Manty)
Preparation time 1 hour
Cooking time 40 minutes
Serves 4
Ingredients
Wholewheat flour: 1 cup,
Salt to taste
Egg yolk: 1
Vegetable oil: 1 tsp
For the filling
Ghee: ¼ cup
Onion, finely chopped: 1
Lamb mince: 300 g
Salt to taste
Black peppercorns, freshly ground: To taste
Pumpkin, grated: 2 tbsp
Garlic paste: ¼ tsp
Yogurt, whisked: ½ cup
Method
Knead a hard dough with wholewheat flour, salt, egg yolk and water.
In praise of Bengali food
Amit and Amiti, two of my journalist friends, invited us over for dinner at their home this weekend. And what a splendid meal they provided. I know, if you are cooking yourself, the trick is to keep things really simple so that you can enjoy the evening yourself.



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