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Restaurants

A very hungry god

An economy in high gear, changing consumer preferences and evolving palates are driving the restaurant business in India. But the plate is hardly full

By Anoothi Vishal

“They say it about show biz, but there is no other business like the restaurant biz,” declares investment banker-turned-restaurateur Gaurav Rekhi. Rekhi should know– hopefully.

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Anant’s nutty pizzas… and more

Pizza is the ultimate bonding food. At Business Standard, the newspaper I used to work for, we would order pizzas for birthdays and farewells, because someone had forgotten lunch, because we had had a stressful day or in anticipation of one, because the Indian cricket team or Federer or some obscure football league had won, or just because it was raining…These were, of course, takeaway pizzas, terrible, American-style and bursting with calories.

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A café with British pub grub… In Delhi

Forgetful Elephant

By Anoothi Vishal
In the gastronomic universe, French food is revered, Spanish seen as unutterably chic, Italian as pop but British as mostly crap. Of course, it’s an unfortunate reputation. British pub staples are wholesome, wonderful comfort food that will fill your stomach and gladden your heart while (usually) not costing the earth.

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Contemporarise, don’t cardboardise!

Why are chefs at Amarata, the Oberoi’s contemporary coastal restaurant shying away from the soul of Indian cooking?

By Anoothi Vishal

What is the future of Indian food in India? This is a question that is often debated by chefs, restaurateurs and foodies. And clearly, looking at the spate of big launches in the last two years, one would have to acknowledge that while a wealth of regional and community cuisines lies unexplored, it is what is now known as “contemporary Indian dining” that is taking centrestage.

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The Yo! Makeover

Yo!China is now offering serious food— selling khao suey (even in Amritsar) and Oberoi-type dim sum buffets. Bye, bye McDonald’s-type positioning…

Whatever we may say about Indian-Chinese, it’s a genre that has spread far and wide. In Hong Kong recently, while we feasted on an enviable spread of dim sums for breakfast and had the chef ladle out healthy hot pots of noodles — with a choice of veggies and meats — that seems to be everyone’s favoured main meal in China, I was surprised to discover the co-existence of “fried noodles” on buffet spreads.

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A shot of Espresso in Expresso land

According to an old tale, coffee first reached India with Baba Budan, a pilgrim on a visit to Mecca, who stole seven coffee seeds and took them back hidden in his clothes. It is a charming tale but in all probability entirely untrue. Though coffee does indeed have Arabic origins, it was the Dutch who started growing it in the Malabar in the 16th century, introducing us to the beverage.

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Tea Time

Despite the fabulous teas that we grow— India, after all, is the world’s largest producer and exporter of tea in the world—it is shocking to come across such poorly prepared cuppas in most homes. Thanks to my work with a (high society type) magazine, I have been visiting some of the poshest (and costliest) homes in the country these days.

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Most romantic dinners– for Valentine’s Day

Here’s my pick in an otherwise most unromantic city. Mail me if you need help setting up something special at a restaurant in Delhi for your date…

Having refused a trip to Khajurao, the land of Kamasutra, this Valentine’s weekend and not having found reservation at my favourite weekend getaway around Delhi, the Westin resort in Sohna (it’s all booked for a V-Day wedding), I am resigned to stay put at home on the weekend.

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Last night I ate a Bloody Mary…

Mixology at LAP Garden

By Anoothi Vishal

 

Molecular gastronomy may be a trend on the wane in the dining citadels of the West. But in Asia, the craze for Ferran Adriaesque attempts is hardly dying. In fact, in India, it is just beginning to come into its own with places such as Aurus in Mumbai, Olive in New Delhi, and Caperberry in Bangalore doing their bit to have bits of watermelon caviar or “cappuccino” of mushroom on their menus.

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