Erstwhile Thai Wok partners slug it out with two Thai restaurants in one month, in the same neighbourhood. As Thai High restarts at Ambawatta, we check out challenger Emperor’s Kitchen
The restaurant launched with a quintessential Delhi society party in December. “We have just received confirmation from the Chief Minister herself,” a breathless PR type had purred into the phone expecting, no doubt, to have me jump up in glee and rush to the event. I have my doubts as to whether high wattage launches can make any restaurant. In my experience, the best ones often creep up on the cityscape unexpectedly; are driven by owners’ passion rather than PR hype; and manage to generate buzz solely through word-of-mouth recommendations rather than Page Three pictures. And above all, these places serve solid, genuine food at prices that don’t make you feel cheated. In short, I was prepared to hate a place rather pretentiously named Emperor’s Kitchen that seemed as if it wanted to be a lounge/party space for just the 200 people who make up fashionable society in Delhi (“socialistas” is the latest word these people like to hear of themselves).
Sometimes, you can be sooooo wrong, opinionated and biased…
That’s the lesson I learnt when I accompanied my husband to the restaurant finally one cold, foggy night (he had been invited for a review for the travel and leisure magazine he edits).
But before we go into my experience; here’s some history! Those of you who remember the rooftop restaurant Thai Wok at Ambawatta, with one of the best views of the Qutab Minar in the city, will remember Natasha Chaudhuri, one of the three young girls who had joined hands to open up the restaurant. While Payal Jauhar was the hands on person, driving much of the food (quiet delicious, by the way) and promotions, Natasha and the other partner Shilpa Gupta were also frequently spotted, at least partying with the fashion crowd that came in regularly. After the success of their Delhi restaurant, the trio then moved to Goa and Mumbai with other ventures — before falling out. Buzz has it that one of their outlets was busted during a party where some of the patrons were caught doping. And police in India being what it is, Jauhar, who ran the place, had to ostensibly go into hiding, work for several years to pay off the cops. The place, needless to say shut down and the partners parted ways. Just to make it clear, this is just society gossip so please don’t take it for a brilliant piece of investigative journalism!
Now, in a delicious turn of events, Jauhar has gone on to reopen her old restaurant (at the same venue) and Ambawatta, under a slightly modified name: Thai High. While Chaudhuri and Gupta, within the space of a month, have opened another (Thai) restaurant in the neighbourhood: Emperor’s Kitchen. Ladies, the battle’s on!
To give it its due, Emperor’s Kitchen is a beautiful place. Set in a haveli (rented) in the picturesque Qutab neighbourhood, the ambience may remind you of another of its famous neighbours in white, Olive. There is an al fresco bar area that can double up as a party space during pleasanter climes no doubt; another more private area on the terrace for similar use, while the fine dining restaurant is located inside— glass walls. The staff is pleasant and courteous and as we arrive, freezing, promptly place a big gas heater right next to us. The rest of the evening is spent is warm comfort.
Despite the huge popularity of Thailand as a holiday destination amongst middle and upper class Indians, Thai cuisine per se is strangely missing from our menus while eating out. Chinese and Indian-Chinese continues to be a money spinner and, of course, these restaurants plus others serving more authentic pan-Asian food will serve you standard satays and curries, but an exclusively Thai menu is still a rarity in Delhi—and possibly other metros. Emperor’s Kitchen seeks to fill that slot—though it does serve bits of Chinese food as we know it (amongst other things, I order soul-warming sweet corn soup). Do not miss the crispy vegetable salad—one of the most popular dishes at the old Thai Wok that makes a reappearance here—which is batter fried vegetables with a light seasoning of sweet and sour sauce. We also ordered the excellent crispy spring rolls, some prawns, and dim sums—which is really the kind of comfort food that any Indian family seeks while eating out; whether at a plush place or the neighbourhood restaurant. The difference here was in the quality of preparation—we couldn’t fault anything.
The main course was more “Thai” as we ordered not just regular curry (duck in red curry) and pad thai but also an excellent dish of chicken and pineapple that came in half a scooped out pineapple. Then, there was this coconutty medley—specially created by the chef—that used eggs, red curry paste and coconut milk to create a unique sauce. The dish is presented inside a coconut and may remind you of the delicious Bengali dish Daab Chingri where shrimps are similarly (but lightly) steamed inside a coconut (with a mustard seasoning). We also tried the “blue prawns”, jumbo sized, the most expensive dish on the menu at about Rs 1100. The food is excellent.
But the best bit about Emperor’s Kitchen is the fact that despite its unfortunate choice of name, you don’t really pay royal prices for your meal. We, of course, didn’t have to pay at all—alas, most magazine or newspaper managements in India still don’t take food reviews seriously enough and don’t have budgets where writers can go undercover and pay for their own meals; so the more honest ones amongst our tribe have learnt not to squirm while dishing out poor ratings if a place so deserves it; regardless of free hospitality – but from what I saw of the menu; most of the starters were in the Rs 200-400 bracket, per dish, which is standard even in places where the food quality may be vastly inferior. All in all, do go to Emperor’s Kitchen. No, it’s not a lounge, or a party place, as you may have believed (as I did) but a serious restaurant.
Ratings
Food: 4 (on 5)
Service: 4
Ambience: 4
Must Have: Crispy vegetable salad
Emperor’s Kitchen, One Qutab, Mehrauli
Ph No: 011-26642600/01
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